Accurate Fabric cost

Accurate Fabric Costs

Developing Fact-based Yield Estimates and Costing Partnershipsby Robert Broadhead

In this article I address the process of estimating fabric yields, the complications involved in offshore contracting, and how to be as accurate as possible in predicting/negotiating fabric costs.

Fabric is 25-40% of the cost of manufacturing a garment in the US and 50-70% in package programs overseas, so accuracy here is worthy of attention. (We've heard this a lot over the years, but it's worth repeating. No other single refinement in production can provide substantial cost savings as easily as fabric control.) Controlling or negotiating fabric costs has become more complicated as overseas manufacturing and cut-make-trim (CMT) / package programs have grown. Before work went offshore, in-house fabric yield estimates and final production consumption reflected cutting department work (either the manufacturers or a local contractors) that was readily known and monitored. However, it is surprising that many businesses do not track the variance between the actual cost of fabric at the end of production and the estimated cost of fabric on the bill of materials. This can significantly impact the bottom line.

CMT Programs
With CMT programs, contractors are essentially being paid for their labor while the Retailer or Manufacturer (R/M) supplies the fabric; therefore, tracking fabric yield often does not get the attention it warrants from the contractor. Cutting department procedures may vary in other countries and problems of time, distance, and culture may also effect results. However, the R/M still controls the patterning and yield estimating process and should have a good idea of expected usage.
Regardless of who does the production markers it is important to reach an agreement in advance of production about how variances in consumption will be handled.

Package Programs
Package programs further complicate estimating and negotiating accurate fabric yields. Retailers and Manufacturers are asking Contractors to bid on package programs based on limited information (e.g., a spec sheet, sample garment, and, perhaps, a "block" pattern) with a short period of time to return a bid. Both parties understand that all the information needed to establish an accurate fabric yield is not available at the time of the price negotiation and everyone wants to avoid up charges and renegotiating costs after their final pricing and margins are set.
Given this climate the Contractor is in a bind. They don't want to bid too low and lose profit margin but also don't want to bid too high and lose the business. The result is often a moderately high bid from the contractor to allow for changes in the final patterning and other unsettled aspects of final production.
The R/M also has limited ways to evaluate the accuracy of the yield since they no longer create a finished pattern. An important question for the R/M is whether it is worth it to create a pattern and develop it sufficiently to provided an accurate estimate for negotiating fabric costs.

In an environment of faster turn times and less information to work with, we'll look at the possible ways to estimate fabric usage and the pros and cons of using each in Local / CMT / Package programs. But first, let's look at the main factors effecting final production consumption, which is what we want to estimate.

What Happens in the Cutting Department
Graded patterns are marked to produce the quantities ordered in each size. These markers reflect the final fit patterning, proper grading of sizes, fabric cuttable width, and the percentage of production being produced in each size. In spreading fabric, the marker sections are overlapped at the ends by a small amount and this also adds to fabric consumption. Fabric quality effects how much damaged material is going to be lost in the spreading process, so there is a "damage cut out percentage" that can be quantified at the end of production. Other impacts on material utilization are allowances for fabric quality testing, bias, and re-cutting garment parts.

Fabric consumption at the end of production, then, is dependent on these components

• Final fit pattern
• Pattern grade
• Fabric cuttable width
• Distribution of units in the size range
• Marker section overlaps
• Damages cut out in spreading
• If applicable, fabric quality testing, bias, and re-cuts
• Estimating Production Yield

Fabric yield estimates are an attempt to account for these components of material utilization. More detailed and accurate itemization of production processes in the estimate gives more accuracy. Less detail and more averaging leads to less reliable estimates (a common approach, for example, is making a sample size estimate marker and adding an average percentage to the yield to account for all the other components). Estimates are often done at three stages in the style development process.

A design estimate may be made early in the design phase to determine if the style can be produced profitably. This is the least accurate "ballpark" estimate because the final determination of patterning, fit, and fabric cuttable width and quality may still be in development.

Once a style has been adopted as part of a line a fabric purchase estimate is needed. Accuracy here is very important since 25-40% of the cost of manufacturing will be spent using this "yards per garment" number. Most of the components of production yield are nearly in their final form, so good estimate numbers are possible

That is, the pattern is close to final fit approval and the fabric source/cuttable width/quality are available. The fabric quality, in the form of an inspection report from the mill, can be converted into an anticipated damage percentage that will be cut out in spreading (more on this later). While a significant percentage of sales numbers are still missing, if any at all are available, past season's sales percentages by size are available for a similar style and are a sound basis for yield estimate calculations

The final estimated yield is made going into production in the form of a cut plan. The cut plan can be made for a single order or for the entire season's production on the style. Production markers are made to cut the quantities sold in each size. They reflect the verified cuttable width of the fabric. The historic or calculated damage cut out percentage is added to the marker yield, as is the historic or standardized marker section overlap allowance.

When final production units and yardage used are recorded, this actual yield is compared to the design, fabric purchase, and cut plan estimates to calculate the percent error at each stage. Tracking estimate error allows gain/loss calculations and the opportunity to identify improvements in the process.

Let's examine the methods available to estimate fabric yield and which are best applied to each type of program.

Duplicate the production process. I worked for a children's wear screen printing firm that sold only a few basic styles, in a fixed ratio, in a limited number of fabrics, year after year.
Nearly all the components of production yield were known and only the screen printing varied. We made full sets of ratio production markers for fabric purchase estimates and were very accurate in our estimates of final production usage. Due to the simplicity of the patterns this was cost effective and could be done within our design and production time schedule. Design estimates were not needed as our production history provided the ballpark yields needed. Cut plans were made on an order by order basis but not for the season, since the fabric purchase estimates were very accurate. This was an unusual situation as most companies cannot afford the time or cost of fitting, grading, or production marking early in the production cycle.

Use Graded patterns for estimate markers. Graded patterns usually offer a more accurate way to estimate yield than using the sample size pattern.
For example, look at an 8-18 size range with a sample size 10.

size 8 10 12 14 16 18

% of Production 8 17 25 25 17 8 = 100%

Sales Ratio 1 2 3 3 2 1

Using a size 12-14 combination in the estimate marker has two advantages: 1) these sizes represent 50% of production, and 2) they fall in the middle of the size range and so they more accurately represent the yield of the 10-16 and 8-18 size combination production markers. To this "marker yard per garment" yield can be added allowances for damage, overlap, etc. For Local and CMT programs, the improved accuracy of the fabric purchase estimate usually justifies the time and expense of grading. For Package programs, the main question is how much work is going to be done on patterning, if any, for the sake of evaluating bids and negotiating fabric costs. The simple answer on this is - patterning is worth it! More on this later.

Use sample size patterns for estimate markers and average the other components of production. This is one of the most common procedures but has serious limitations. In the above 8-18 example the sample size 10 represents only 17% of production and the marker layout does not represent the 12-14, 10-16, or 8-18 pattern arrangements. An average percentage can be added to the size 10 estimate marker to compensate for this discrepancy but there will be a significant error in this averaging from fabric to fabric and style to style, even within a body type. An additional source of error is that most sales numbers do not occur in a convenient 1-2-3-3-2-1 ratio, as in this example. For Local/CMT/Package programs, marking a sample size pattern and adding a lumped average percentage (representing grading, damages, etc.) at any stage of estimating yield leads to a high error rate that can be avoided.

Estimate yield using a similar style from a previous season that has a known production yield. Without a pattern, the accuracy of the estimate gets even more erratic. Small patterning differences can cause larger than expected yield variances. A review of 17 styles of women's 5-pocket jeans all marked at 61.5" showed final production yields from 1.11 to 1.32 yards per garment - a 19% difference! Trying to mathematically convert the yield of a similar style marked at one width (e.g. 62") to a new style at a different width (e.g. 54") will skew the results further. With Package programs the R/M that chooses not to develop a patterned estimate is vulnerable to overcharges on fabric. A company recently approached me saying that by evaluating bids based on similar styles their average negotiated fabric cost was 15% high.

Estmarktm software is a new offering to the apparel industry that accurately estimates fabric yield by itemizing all the components of production into its calculation. The accuracy of the results depends on the quality of the data entered. If the seven components of final production consumption, listed above, are used with a sample size estimate marker the results can be accurate to within one percent of the actual final production consumption. If a "block" or non-final-fit pattern is used and averages are itemized for each of the other components the error can be held to under five percent, on the average. The fabric purchase estimate for Local/CMT/Package programs will fall within a 1-5% error depending on the accuracy of the data input. The software also includes a conversion program in which the damage cut out percentage is calculated by inputting a fabric inspection report; a useful tool since inspection reports are readily available from fabric mills and damage cut out percentages vary widely.

Using the infant's wear example below in the size range Small-5XL with a sample size Medium estimate marker, it becomes easier to see how this process is better than the others.

Size S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL

% of Production 6 9 18 19 16 15 11 6 = 100%

Pattern Grade % 9 0 8 17 26 35 42 48

Using any simple combination of graded sizes, much less the sample size, in an estimate marker will not adequately represent the pattern grade or the distribution of production within the size range. With Estmarktm, each percentage of pattern grade and unit distribution within the size range is used in the calculation, so there is no averaging. The resulting estimated yield can only be improved on by making a full set of production markers.

Estmarktm is a tool for Retailers/Manufacturers/Import Brokers/Contractors to achieve a fact-based partnership. The calculated yield is as accurate as it can be using the best data available at the time. If any of the items in the calculation change (e.g., fabric width/quality or patterning), the itemized process provides the fact-based recalculation format for any yield adjustment

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ISO 9001:2008

ISO 9001:2008 SEGERA DIRILIS

oleh:noor fitrihana

Dari www.batikyogya.wordpress.com

ISO 9001 telah banyak diterapkan di beberapa perusahaan, ISO 9001 telah mengalami tiga kali perubahan pertama tahun 1987, kedua tahun 1994 dan ketiga tahun 2000.
Sebagaimana standar-standar lainnya, standar Sistem Manajemen Mutu ISO 9001 ditinjau secara periodik, setiap ± 6 - 7 tahun. Saat ini peninjauan sedang dilakukan pada standar ISO 9001 revisi terakhir yang diterbitkan tanggal 15 Desember 2000 untuk memastikan apakah standar tersebut masih relevan atau tidak dengan situasi dan kondisi dunia usaha/industri saat ini. Pada akhir tahun 2008 ini ISO akan mengeluarkan standar baru yaitu ISO 9001:2008 yang akan menggantikan ISO 9001:2000. Perusahaan yang telah menerapkan ISO 9001:2000 harus melakukan perubahan ( up grade ) ke ISO 9001:2008 agar masih dapat menggunakan sertifkat. Biasanya diberikan toleransi waktu 2 tahun sejak versi terbaru diluncurkan.

Peninjauan (revisi) dilakukan oleh berbagai working group dan komite yang berada dalam kelompok ISO/TC 176 melalui proses-proses yang menghasilkan dokumen, secara berturut-turut: Committee Draft (CD) 1, CD 2, dan terakhir DIS/ISO 9001:2008. Saat ini DIS/ISO 9001:2008 sedang dalam proses ballot untuk menjadi Final Draft International Standard (FDIS).
Beberapa hal terkait dengan revisi standar ISO 9001 adalah:
 Secara keseluruhan, perubahan yang terjadi hanya sedikit saja (minor) sehingga organisasi tidak akan terlalu bermasalah dalam mengadopsinya ke dalam sistem mereka.
 Desain proses revisi untuk ISO 9001 ditetapkan bahwa jika sudah terjadi revisi major sebelumnya, maka revisi berikutnya akan dilakukan revisi minor.
 Perubahan yang signifikan terdapat pada standar ISO 9004 yang merupakan dokumen panduan (bukan peryaratan).

Berikut perubahan yang terdapat pada DIS/ISO 9001:2008:

PERUBAHAN STANDAR ISO 9001:2000 vs DIS/ISO 9001:2008
Sumber FCG Consulting
SECTION PERUBAHAN
0.1 Para. 3
Persyaratan peraturan/perundangan (statutory & regulatory) berkaitan dengan produk secara tegas diminta (harus diidentifikasi sejak awal).
0.4
Ditambahkan penjelasan bahwa pengembangan ISO 9001:2008 mempertimbangkan standar ISO 14001:2004.
klausul 1.1 dan 1.2
• Disebutkan kembali persyaratan perundangan produk.
• Note 1: ditambahkan bahwa istilah produk (dalam realisasi produk) termasuk produk yang dibeli.
• Note 2: Peraturan/perundangan merupakan persyaratan hokum (legal).
klausul 2 Referensi yang digunakan adalah ISO 9000:2005.
klausul 3 Penjelasan tentang Pelanggan – Organisasi – Suplier dihilangkan.
klausul 4.1
• Kata “identifikasi (identify)” diganti menjadi “ditentukan (determine)”.
• Pernyataan berkenaan proses yang dioutsourcekan agas ditekankan tetapi maksudnya tetap sama.
• Note 2 ditambahkan untuk menjelaskan bahwa proses yang dioutsourcekan mungkin berkaitan dengan klausul 7.4 (Pembelian).
• Note 3 perluasan tipe pengendalian. Pengendalian juga dilakukan pada proses yang dioutsourcekan.
4.2.1
• Susunan kata agak ditata kembali tetapi maksudnya tetap sama.
• Note 2 ditambahkan untuk menjelaskan bahwa dokumen tunggal dapat terdiri dari persyaratan bagi satu atau lebih prosedur. Sebuah persyaratan untuk prosedur terdokumentasi dapat meliputi lebih dari dokumen, seperti: dokumen Tindakan Koreksi dan Pencegahan dijadikan satu dokumen.
4.2.3.f Klarifikasi tentang dokumen eksternal yang menjadi referensi yang dibutuhkan dalam Sistem Manajemen Mutu.
4.2.4
Panjang klausul ini dikurangi secara signifikan tetapi persyaratannya tidak berubah.
5.1.a
Ditambahkan kata “statutory”.
5.5.2
Ditambahkan persyaratan bahwa Wakil Manajemen perlu berasal dari anggota manajemen organisasi.
6.2
• Perubahan Judul tetapi kalimatnya tetap sama (perubahan dalam perintah).
• Versi 2000 menyebutkan ’……………… berdampak terhadap mutu produk’, sekarang menjadi ‘…………. berdampak terhadap kesesuaian persyaratan produk’.
• 6.2.2 b) standa 2008 menyatakan bahwa ‘jika dapat diterapkan’ pelatihan perlu disediakan untuk memenuhi kompetensi yang diperlukan.
• 6.2.2 c) standar 2008 menyatakan bahwa pemenuhan kompetensi lebih menjamin dari pemeriksaan efektivitas pelatihan.
6.3
c) termasuk sistem informasi.
6.4
Ditambahkan catatan untuk menjelaskan bahwa lingkungan kerja termasuk kebisingan, temperature dan kelembaban.
7.1
c Ditambahkan kata Pengukuran.
7.2.1
• agak ditekankan.
• kata ‘berkaitan dengan’ diganti menjadi ‘dapat diterapkan’.
• Pernyataan tentang persyaratan tambahan ditentukan oleh organisasi menjadi perlu dipertimbangkan oleh organisasi.
• Ditambahkan catatan untuk menjelaskan bahwa kata ‘aktivitas setelah pengiriman’ termasuk: pemberian garansi, dll.
7.3.1
Ditambahkan catatan untuk menjelaskan bahwa Tinjauan Disain, verifikasi dan validasi adalah aktivitas terpisah, walaupun pelaksanaannya dapat dipisahkan atau digabungkan (kombinasi), seperti: aktivitas verifikasi dan validasi dilaksanakan bersamaan.
7.3.2
Pada paragraph terakhir, kata input-input ini menjadi input-input (saja).
7.3.3
• Kata ‘disediakan’ dihilangkan dan kata ‘sesuai untuk (suitable for)’ diganti menjadi ‘yang dapat (that enables)’.
• b) kata ‘untuk’ (penyediaan layanan) dihilangkan.
• Ditambahkan catatan yang memperhatikan cakupan terhadap ‘perlindungan produk’.
7.5.3
• Persyaratan tambahan untuk memperjelas bahwa status inspeksi dan test harus diidentifikasi selama realisasi produk.
• Agak ditekankan persyaratan terhadap rekaman kemamputelusuran.
7.5.4
• Penekanan terhadap persyaratan untuk menginformasikan kepada pelanggan jika terdapat masalah dan penyimpanan rekaman.
• Pernyataan “dan data personal” ditambahkan pada catatan tentang intelektual property.
7.5.5
• Penekanan dari “kesesuaian dari (conformity of)” menjadi “supaya mempertahankan/menjaga kesesuaian terhadap persyaratan”.
• “apabila sesuai (where appropriate)” diubah menjadi “jika dapat diterapkan (as applicable)”.
7.6
• Kata “peralatan (devices)” pada judul diubah menjadi “peralatan (equipment)”.
• Kata Merujuk ke 7.1 dihilangkan.
• c) “diidentifikasi untuk dapat” diubah menjadi ”mempunyai identifikasi untuk dapat (have identification to enable their)”.
• Note 1 ditambahkan untuk menghilangkan kata Merujuk ke 10012-2 dan diganti pada Note 3 untuk menjelaskan tetang verifikasi dan manajemen konfigurasi terhadap software computer (jika digunakan untuk aktivitas pemantauan dan pengukuran).
8.2.1
Ditambahkan catatan untuk menyediakan beberapa ide bagaimana kepuasan pelanggan dapat diukur.
8.2.2
• Persyaratan untuk prosedur terdokumentasi sudah ditekankan tetapi tidak berubah.
• Ditambahkan persyaratan terhadap rekaman audit dan hasil-hasilnya.
• Ditambahkan persyaratan Tanggungjawab manajemen terhadap area yang diaudit untuk menjamin tindakan koreksi dan pencegahan yang diperlukan.
• Catatan bahwa rujukan terhadap ISO 10011 diubah menjadi ISO 19011.
8.2.3
• Pernyataan “untuk menjamin kesesuaian terhadap produk” dihilangkan.
• Ditambahkan catatan untuk menjelaskan bahwa organisasi sebaiknya mempertimbangkan tipe pemantauan dan pengukuran proses dan jangkauannya yang berpengaruh terhadap mutu dan SMM.
8.2.4 Persyaratan “pemeliharaan bukti kesesuaian terhadap kriteria keberterimaan sudah dialihkan tetapi masih menjadi persyaratan.
8.3
• Persyaratan terhadap prosedur terdokumentasi sudah ditekankan tetapi tidak berubah.
• Pernyataan “jika dapat diaplikasikan (where applicable)” ditambahkan terhadap metode untuk menyelesaikan masalah produk tidak sesuai.
• Persyaratan untuk penyelesaian produk tidak sesuai yang mencakup aktivitas setelah pengiriman sudah dialihkan ke bullet d) tetapi tidak berubah.
• Persyaratan terhadap rekaman dialihkan tetapi tidak berubah.

Dengan rencana penerbitan versi terbaru ini maka penulis menyarankan perusahaan ataupun lemabaga yang sedang melakukan sertifikasi ISO bisa memilih 2 alternatif berikut
1. Sesegera mungkin melakukan proses sertifikasi ISO 9000 sebelum dikeluarkan versi terbaru
2. Menunda proses sertifikasi ISO 9000 menunggu keluarnya versi terbaru artinya

Pilihan terhadap 2 alternatif tersebut tergantung urgensi sertifikat ISO 9000 bagi organisasi/perusahaan yang akan memeperolehnya.

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QC GARMENT

QUALITY CONTROL GARMEN
Oleh: Noor Fitrihana

QUALITY CONTROL

Definisi Quality Control (pengendalian mutu) adalah semua usaha untuk menjamin (assurance) agar hasil dari pelaksanaan sesuai dengan rencana yang telah ditetapkan dan memuaskan konsumen (pelanggan).

Tujuan quality control adalah agar tidak terjadi barang yang tidak sesuai dengan standar mutu yang diinginkan (second quality) terus-menerus dan bisa mengendalikan, menyeleksi, menilai kualitas, sehingga konsumen merasa puas dan perusahaan tidak rugi.

Tujuan Pengusaha menjalankan QC adalah untuk menperoleh keuntungan dengan cara yang fleksibel dan untuk menjamin agar pelanggan merasa puas, investasi bisa kembali, serta perusahaan mendapat keuntungan untuk jangka panjang.

Bagian pemasaran dan bagian produksi tidak perlu melaksanakan, tetapi perlu kelancaran dengan memanfaatkan data, penelitian dan testing dengan analisa statistik dari bagian QC yang disampaikan kepada pihak produksi untuk mengetahui bagaimana hasil kerjanya sebagai langkah untuk perbaikan.

Saat pelaksanaan pengujian QC dan testing bila ditemukan beberapa masalah khusus, perlu dibuat suatu study agar dapat digunakan untuk mengatasi masalah di bagian produksi tersebut.

Di samping tersebut di atas tugas bagian QC yaitu jika terjadi komplain, mengadakan cek ulang dan menyatakan kebenaran untuk bisa diterima secara terpisah lalu dilaporkan kepada departemen terkait untuk perbaikan proses selanjutnya.

Untuk itu perlu dilakukan langkah-langkah sebagai berikut:

1. Pengendalian biaya (Cost Control)

Tujuannya adalah agar produk yang dihasilkan memberikan harga yang bersaing (Competitive price)

2. Pengendalian Produksi (Production Control)

Tujuanya adalah agar proses produksi (proses pelaksanaan ban berjalan) bisa lancar, cepat dan jumlahnya sesuai dengan rencana pencapaian target.

3. Pengendalian Standar Spesifikasi produk

Meliputi aspek kesesuaian, keindahan, kenyamanan dipakai dsb, yaitu aspek-aspek fisik dari produk.

4. Pengendalian waktu penyerahan produk (delivery control)

Penyerahan barang terkait dengan pengaturan untuk menghasilkan jumlah produk yang tepat waktu pengiriman, sehingga dapat tepat waktu diterima oleh pembeli.

JENIS JENIS QUALITY CONTROL DI GARMEN

• 1. Piece Goods quality control/pemeriksaan bahan baku.
     • Adanya inspector pada saat staffing ( bongkar muat )
     • Melakukan pengecekan sejumlah 10% kain dari total kain yang diterima
     • Melakukan dan mengevaluasi adanya fabric defect/ cacat kain
     • Melakukan perbaikan apabila diperlukan
  2. Cutting Departemen Quality Control

· Melakukan persiapan terhadap kebutuhan manpower

· Mempunyai sistim pengecekan pada setiap step proses cutting ( Misalnya pada proses : marker, spreading, cutting dan cutting pieces/ komponen )

· Mempunyai sistim perbaikan apabila diperlukan.

• 1. In process Quality Control

· Melakukan persiapan terhadap manpower, alat yang diperlukan mempunyai tempat dengan penerangan yang baik sebagai tempat pengecekan.

· Mempunyai sistim sampling plan

· Mempunyai prosedur dalam menangani masalah rejection dalam bundeling sistim

· Mempunyai sistim audit minimum per hari untuk setiap operator. Untuk operator baru pengecekan minimum 3 x per hari

· Mempunyai sistim audit untuk setiap tahapan proses

· Mempunyai sistim inspect untuk setiap bundle, dengan cara diambil 7 pcs per bundle dan akan dinyatakan reject apabila ditemukan 1 pcs.

· Mempunyai sistim kontinyu audit untuk operator yang mempunyai masalah.

· Mempunyai sistim menyimpanan record untuk operator bermasalah.

• 1. Final Statistical Audit

· Menentukan pada step mana kita melakukan sistim audit , dengan menentukan dari status produksi.

· Menentukan berapa colour/warna atau berapa model/style yang akan di audit.

· Mempersiapkan manpower, alat dan tempat

· Melakukan pemilihan pada garmen sesuai dengan statistical

sampling plan

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap jumlah contract dan melakukan periksaan terhadap akurasi labelling dan model/style.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan secara visual untuk setiap jenis quality defect

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap jumlah garmen yang bermasalah

·

SISTEM PEMERIKSAAN DALAM PROSES PRODUKSI

Pemeriksaan Sample (Sample Inspection)

Sample adalah contoh bahan atau material, contoh model atau style, atau contoh garmen. Sample ini dapat berupa sample dari pihak pembeli atau pun yang dibuat oleh pihak pabrik.

Sample yang dimaksud di sini adalah sample yang dibuat oleh pihak pabrik berdasarkan contoh dari pihak pembeli.

Tujuan pemeriksaan adalah agar seluruh sample yang dibuat oleh pihak pabrik (bagian sample) bebas dari cacat, kerusakan, penyimpangan/ ketidaksesuain baik model, mutu jahitan/finishing, ukuran, warna, dan lain sebagainya.

Mutu produk adalah kesesuaian ciri dan karakter produk yang dibuat, dengan ciri dan karakter produk yang diminta, dan kemampuan suatu produk untuk memenuhi kebutuhan pemakai dalam kondisi tertentu.

Setelah menerima sample, selanjutnya sample di-copy komplit size, cek style dan ukuran, kemudian dilanjutkan dengan membuat top sample pre production sebanyak 4 pcs atau lebih per style dan size.

Urutan/Prosedur Pemeriksaan Sampel (QC Sampel):

a. Petugas bagian quality control (QC) akan menerima sample dan lembar pemeriksaan sample dari petugas bagian sample.

b. Lembar rencana kerja (work-sheet) dan contoh produk garmen yang akan diproduksi dibuat oleh petugas bagian sample & Merchandiser diserahkan ke bagian QC.

c. Petugas QC akan memeriksa dan memberi komentar/koreksi terhadap sample pada lembar pemeriksaan (work-sheet) dan menyerahkan kembali kepada merchandiser.

d. Merchandiser mempelajari catatan QC dan memutuskan untuk dikirim ke bagian produksi atau ditolak dan dikembalikan kepada bagian pembuatan sample untuk dibuat ulang contoh atau sample.

e. Jika sample ditolak oleh merchandiser maka sample akan dikembalikan kepada bagian pembuatan sample untuk diperbaiki atau dibuat ulang sesuai dengan mutu sample yang dikehendaki oleh pembeli.

f. Jika sample diterima atau disetujui oleh merchandiser maka sample tersebut akan dikirim oleh merchandiser ke pihak pembeli guna mendapatkan persetujuan, sesuai permintaan atau tidak (approval sample)

g. Petugas QC akan menerima salinan atau copy laporan pemeriksaan sample dari merchandiser.

h. Sampel yang telah disetujui pihak pembeli (approval sample) dikembalikan ke bagian produksi untuk diproduksi secara massal.

PEMERIKSAAN PADA BAGIAN POTONG/CUTTING

Cutting adalah proses pemotongan kain sesuai pola marker yang ada dan sudah dicek kebenarannya oleh bagian marker dan QC cutting.

Secara singkat yang dilakukan oleh bagian QC cutting adalah mengecek gelaran kain, kain tidak gelombang, tidak melipat, kain bawah sampai atas harus sama, dan penyusutan kain. Kemudian mengecek hasil potongan, potongan harus sesuai dengan sample dan toleransi ukuran.

Urutan/prosedur pemeriksaan pada cutting (QC Cutting):

a. Periksa lembar kain bagian atas sampai pada lembar kain bagian bawah dengan posisi kertas marker.

b. Periksa dan cocokkan komponen pola dengan komponen pola yang terdapat pada kertas marker apakah komponen pola sudah lengkap atau belum. Petugas QC harus mencatat semua temuan pada lembar laporan pemeriksaan.

c. Periksa apakah terdapat kesalahan potong pada setiap garis komponen pola ataukah tidak.

d. Cek interlining dengan pola (bila komponen garmen menggunakan interlining dan bordir)

e. Kesalahan potong pada bagian yang seharusnya dipotong ulang pada kain cadangan, dilakukan pencatatan dan pemotongan ulang

Lebih detailnya adalah sebagai berikut

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap kontruksi kain, warna kain, design kain, bagian luar dalam kain, dan bagian centre line kain. Juga melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap kualitas kain.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan pada marker, apakah rasio size/ukuran sudah memenuhi seluruh size/ukuran yang dipesan

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap hasil spreading/ampar apakah kain yang diampar sudah benar benar rata tidak bergelombang dan lurus.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap metode cutting

· Pemeriksaan terhadap hasil potong, apakah seluruh hasil potong sudah benar benar sesuai dengan original pattern/pola yang diberikan oleh buyer/pemesan.

· Pemeriksaan pada hasil potong, apakah stripe atau kotak dari potongan komponen benar benar matching dan balance.

PEMERIKSAAN PADA BAGIAN FUSING

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap hasil fusing sebelum dan sesudah pencucian. Apakah mengalami perubahan warna dan ukuran.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap kualitas fusing yang dihasilkan, terdapat delamination dan strike trough atau tidak. Apakah bond strength sudah memenuhi standar atau tidak.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan khusus untuk kain stripe/kotak hasil fuse benar benar lurus dan balance.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan apakah interlining yang digunakan sudah sesuai dengan yang ditentukan oleh buyer atau tidak.

PEMERIKSAAN PADA BAGIAN JAHIT.

Urutan/prosedur pemeriksaan pada proses Sewing:

a. Bekerja sesuai dengan pedoman produksi atau work sheet.

b. Mengikuti proses sesuai dengan layout sampai baju jadi

c. Periksa hasil cutting per komponen sesuai dengan sample dan toleransi

d. Memeriksa jumlah stikan dalam 1 inch (stitch/inch)

e. Periksa hasil jahitan dan ukuran tiap tahapan proses, jahitan harus baik, rapi, tidak loncat.

f. Periksa hasil jadi sesuai dengan work sheet

g. Periksa hasil jadi setelah dilakukan trimming

h. Semua data dicatat pada blangko yang sudah disediakan

Lebih detailnya adalah sebagai berikut

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap model/style yang akan digunakan.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap material penunjang yang akan digunakan, nisalnya : Label, Button, benang

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap hasil komponen jadi, spi, ukuran, model/style, handling/penanganan

· Melakukan pengukuran terhadap garmen jadi

· Melakukan tes cuci pada garmen jadi untuk mengetahui apakah ada perubahan warna, dan ukuran setelah pencucian.

PEMERIKSAAN PADA BAGIAN GOSOK-LIPAT – PENGEPAKAN

· Melakukan pemeriksaan secara tekhnis apakah temperature/suhu yang digunakan sudah sesuai dengan jenis kain yang akan digosok atau tidak.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan dari hasil gosok, apakah ada perubahan warna, bentuk dan ukuran setelah penggosokan.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan dari hasil gosokan apakah sudah halus sesuai dengan yang diinginkan atau tidak.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan apakah folding method/cara lipat sudah seusesuai dengan permintaan buyer atau tidak.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap material penunjang( card board, paper collar stripe, plastic collar support, tissue paper, hang tag, price ticket ) apakah sudah sesuai yang dengan permintaan dari buyer atau tidak.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap kualitas, ukuran dari export carton.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap total jumlah per carton, dan methode packing.

FINAL AUDIT PROCEDURE/ PROSEDUR FINAL AUDIT

Final audit akan dilakukan pada posisi garmen dengan status produksi tertentu.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan kesesuain pada jumlah pemesanan, warna dan model.

· Melakukan pemilihan/pengambilan garmen secara random sesuai dengan statistical sample plan.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan secara visual dari hasil operasi sewing/ jahit apakah kualitas jahit sudah sesuai atau tidak dengan standar

· Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap ukuran, apakah sudah sesuai dengan pemesanan atau tidak. Minimum pengukuran 5 pieces untuk setiap warna dan ukuran.

· Melakukan pemeriksaan secara menyeluruh terhadap: model, kain, warna, jahitan, material penunjang, konstruksi material, price ticket, folding method/cara lipat, carton marking. Dan carton labeling.

KLASIFIKASI DEFECT

1. Defect akan diklasifikasikan menjadi dua yaitu, defect major dan defect minor.

2. Major defect adalah sebuah kondisi garmen yang diindikasikan akan menjadi second quality atau tidak memenuhi standar karena beberapa alasan berikut :

• Defect tersebut akan mempengaruhi integrity/keutuhan dari product
• Defect tersebut akan mempengruhi terhadap daya jual dari product
• Defect tersebut akan mempengaruhu kepercayaan dan kepuasan konsumen terhadap product
• Defect tersebut menjadikan ketidak sesuaian pada style

3. Minor defect adalah sebuah kondisi dimana defect tersebut tidak akan menimbulkan complain dari konsumen.

DEFINISI DEFECT PADA BAGIAN SEWING/JAHIT

1. Crooked label/ label tidak di tengah +/- 1/16” dari tengah masih diperbolehkan
2. Label seam ends on yoke/ jahitan label tembus satu jarum pada bahu. Diperbolehkan tidak melebihi 1/8”
3. Label stitching over run/ jahitan label keluar. Diperbolehkan tidak melebihi satu jarum
4. Poor banding/ lapisan kaki kerah melintir. Tidak diperbolehkan
5. Nose on band extension/pemasangan kaki kerah nonjol. Diperbolehkan tidak melebihi 1/16”.
6. Uneven collar point length/Lebar dari pucuk kerah tidak sama kiri dan kanan. Tidak ada toleransi , ukuran harus benar benar akurat.
7. Untidy joint stitching at collar/jahitan sambungan pada kerah. Tidak diperbolehkan ada jahitan sambung pada bagian kerah.
8. Mismatched collar/kerah tidak matching. Diharuskan matching pada bagian ini.
9. Skip stitch collar/stik kerah loncat. Tidak diperbolehkan
10. Open seam collar closing/pasang tutup kerah jebol. Tidak ada toleransi.
11. Beading collar point/pucuk kerah tidak lancip. Tidak ada toleransi.
12. Fractured Collar point/pucuk kerah jebol. Tidak ada toleransi.
13. One front longer than other/bagian depan kiri kanan tidak sama. Tidak diperbolehkan melebihi ¼”
14. Skip stitch top centre/jahitan loncat pada bagian tengah. Tidak ada toleransi.
15. Missing or faulty button/kurang atau rusak kancing. Tidak ada toleransi.
16. Open seam joining/jebol pada penggabungan. Tidak ada toleransi
17. Faulty pocket blocking/Block saku kurang baik. Tidak ada toleransi.
18. Incorrect pocket location/penempatan saku yang tidak sesuai. Diperbolehkan tidak melebihi ¼”
19. Hi Low Pocket/Pocket kiri dan kanan tidak sama posisinya. Diperbolehkan tidak melebihi 1/4”
20. Sleeve not even at armhole/ tangan tidak sama pada bagian ketiak. Diperbolehkan tidak melebihi ¼”
21. One sleeve longer than other/panjang tangan kiri dan kanan tidak sama. Diperbolehkan tidak melebihi ¼”
22. Puckering/Kerut. Tidak diperbolehkan.
23. Sleeve placket faulty blocking/Blocking tangan tidak bagus. Harus diperbaiki.
24. Fullness in Cuff/Gelembung pada manset. Harus diperbaiki.
25. Nose on Cuff/pemasangan manset menonjol ke luar.Harus diperbaiki.
26. Beading Cuff attached/Pasang manset menonjol ke atas. Harus diperbaiki.
27. Needle pulls, needle chew/Terdapat bekas karena jarum tumpul. Tidak diperbolehkan.
28. Brooken stitch/Jahitan putus. Tidak diperbolehkan.
29. Half sewn button/jahitan kancing hanya separuh.

DEFINISI DEFFECT PADA BAGIAN FOLDING DAN PACKING

1. Crushed or no collar support/Rusak atau sobek kertas penahan kerah. Harus diperbaiki.

2. Tie space too big/overlap/Jarak pemasangan dasi terlalu lebar atau bertumpang tindih.

3. Crooked Collar/Kerah tidak pas pada bagian tengah lipatan.

4. Mismatched front stripe/plaid/Bagian kiri dan kanan tidak matching untuk stripe atau kotak.

5. Mismatched pocket/Pemasangan saku tidak matching.

6. Mismatched collar/Kerah tidak matching

7. Collar not rolled properly/Kerah tidak bulat secara sempurna.

8. Torn/misprinted poly bag/ Plastik robek dan ada kesalahan print.

9. Dry wrinkles/ Gosokan tidak rapi.

10. Poor Pinning/Pemasangan jarum pentul tidak baik.

11. Crooked front folding/Bagian lipatan kiri kanan tidak seimbang.

12. Flaps not covering to pocket/Tutup saku tidak menutupi secara sempurna.

13. Puckering collar closing/kerut pada bagian pemasangan kerah.

14. Fullnes in band/gelembung pada bagian dalam kaki kerah

15. Hi Low Button Down/Kancing kerah kiri kanan tinggi rendah.

16. Misaligned neck button to front button/Kancing leher tidak lurus terhadap kancing depan.

17. Fullness around collar/Gelembung sekitar kerah

18. Fullness between 1^st and 2^nd front button/Gelembung antara kancing pertama dan kedua pada bagian depan.

19. Wrong size in box/Salah memasukan ukuran pada box

20. Wrong assortment/ Salah assortment

21. Wrong style in box/ Salah style yang masuk pada box

22. Wrong poly bag/ Salah plastic

23. Wrong Carton Marking/ Salah print pada karton box

Sumber bacaan

Aas Asmawati, Pelatihan QA Garmen di PTBB UNY

GRIPAC, Modul QC.

diambil dari www.batikyogya.wordpress.com

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Article

The Way out for workers and Indonesian Poor

Ditulis oleh Administrator ( Buruh menggugat )

The Way out for workers and Indonesian Poor: Build our own Movement forces; build our own Political Power and our own economic system Dedicated to all Indonesian Working Class, employees and Indonesian Poor Today, May 1st, 2008, we are here on the street and them whose right know are on their way, we come to siege the Palace and gathering to celebrates International Labor Day. Today is our day, to remember of over 100 years back, the International Working Class from various country had mobilized and strike to demanded short work times of 16-20 hours per-day cut down to 8 hours work. Toiling persistence and have had forced huge energies struggles, that in the end the Capitalist and Bourgeois powers have successfully strike down and won us our 8 hours working day, that we received it today. While in actual time, This 8 hours works has not enough to fulfilled workers needs any more, its reward only a cheap pay labor. More over with the contract-works status that shadowed by mass dismissal happened any time, while in other hand also, there outsourcing workers that treated rampantly and had their prosperity plundered. Out side the factory, workers as part of the rest Indonesian people, have no assurance to health care that highly expensive. They face limited to improve intellectual of their own and families because a high educational fee and books expense. And now, poor Indonesians Working Class getting worse, effected by high accelerated prices of fundamentals needs. Rice's prices, frying oils, eggs, petroleum, and gas prices and etc are beyond their purchase ability anymore. That's current situations put over faced of us by all the cowardice's elites of Indonesian politicians over the capitalist. They've been concord, bend over, and surrendered to the capital power. Its foreign capitals they worship off (come Mr. Capital, please come to Indonesia, investing our country, we'll prepare everything for you), in other sides, there are the New-Made National Capital Clan, who's also cowardly to resist, even they have had deferred by foreign capital. Take a look of what Indonesian Employers Association (APINDO) have been done after awhile the Oil-Based Fuels (BBM) subsidies for industrial company had yanked off by Government, which is part of the foreign capital pressure? APINDO have not resisted challenging them at all, more over they exploiting Indonesian Working Class more sturdily, have taken more advantages to keep their own profit, even under foreign capital pressure. We acknowledge that Foreign Capital makes use of those cowardly Indonesian Elite's Politic powers and the New Domestic Capital were on going to plundering our welfare, it is the colonialism. The foreign capital always interest in three things, even since early colonial period, they are: First, to take control over all Indonesian natural wealth. Second, to obtain cheap labor and can be control. And third, to creates market for their products. That's why the Elite Politics and New Domestic Capital agree to let the foreign capital take over our Mining Factories (oil, gas, coal, gold, nickel, copper and etc.), they were agree to let go our water sources, our Banks, and even to the point of the education sector being controlled by foreign interest. Cowardly was made them consent to amend Labor Law over foreign capitals need, which Labor Law no. 22/1957 on Resolving Labor Dispute and Law no. 12/1964 on Mass Dismissal won by workers under Soekarno regime was nothing benefits foreign capital. It is for these purpose occur in 2003, Labor Law no. 13/2003 and Law no. 2/2004 that revise Labor Law totally different to once in Sukarno times. The essential of Labor Law no. 13/2003 and law no. 12/2004 were to obtain cheap labor, easily to perform PHK, and under control to do not resist any authority. Practically applies minimum wages, contracts work and outsourcing, and criminalizing Worker activists. It is similar to Foreign Capital interest to gain the markets through import gate open wider for their products, it's because the Elites Politic power and those New Domestic Capitalist are cowardly and weakly to fully understand whether foreign product imports would switched off National economic and agriculture products. On that material bases, Workers Challenge Alliance (ABM) since it first National Conference last 2006, had declared to struggle against Foreign Capital Colonized, war against the Elites Politics Power and Domestic Capitalist. This opposition statement has formulated in ABM struggles platform, that's means as its goals and altogether the attack against enemies of Indonesian Working Class and Poor: 1. Build a strong and autonomous National Industry under control of Indonesian Working Class and Poor. To bring about welfare for Indonesian Working Class and Poor, however, requires a strong industrialization, in entire Indonesian territory. To establish these industries it have to begin, in the first Place, with purpose to fulfill Indonesian Working Class and Poor needs of goods and services, that in simultaneously with the implementing the national proper wages (to increase consumption ability), to improving their science and technology acknowledgement (it had to begin with free education fees from beginner level until university), and proper health care service urge a free health facilities that motivate to increasing the productivity . In order to establish the Powerful and Autonomous National Industry, its requires Industrial-Bases such Chemical Industrial Base, Metal Industrial Base and various other industries should be strongly constructed basically, to supports the development other needed industrialization for welfare establishment of Indonesian Working Class and Poor. And to functions those Industrial bases, in fact, energies like Fuels, Electrical power, Water and etc. should be properly supplied. To be remain on this base only is still not enough but as long as National Industry has unable to competes the Industry of advance capitalist country, then State protection of National Industry ought to performed, as well in conducting banning instruction on importing or exporting certain products items. In order for this to happen obviously we can not relies on Foreign Capital power, the cowardly forces of the Political elites or domestic capitalist. Rather, this has to be taken under our own supervised, the Indonesian working class and Poor because in reality, the one who better understand the mechanism of production process as well as distribution are the Indonesian working class and Poor. 2. Oversee Debt Elimination by the Uniting Power of Protest Action and Mobilization of Indonesian Working Class and the Poor. Since the agreement of Round Table Conference 1949, the foreign country –it was Dutch – forced Indonesian Government to pay debts of Dutch for 4 Million Gulden, as war expense, etc., which very expensive in that time. It put forward as requisite on "acknowledgement" of Indonesian sovereignty (which in fact, Dutch only acknowledge Indonesian Republican League, the state constructed by Dutch themselves). This debt had never been paid by Soekarno, even furthermore, the Round Table Conference it self was no longer avowed. But when Soeharto's regime Hold the power – until today presidencies of Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono–Jusuf Kalla – this dept of Dutch time is re-pay for 35 years time. And following other additional debts, that consist sorts of requisites that facilitate Foreign Capital easy access to plunders Indonesian Natural Sources, exploiting Indonesian worker class and Poor, and selling their products to Indonesia. Thus, money that should be use to Develop National Industry, is consume to pay off foreign debt, not to mention, the condition behind the debt also extremely damaging – the enactment of Law no. 13/2003 on labor as well as its plan of revision are part of condition of foreign debt. Like wise also, privatization and the 2007 Law on Foreign Investment, and so forth. Because of this therefore, payment of the foreign debt must stop. And this is not something that can be done by the cowardly political elites or domestic capital. The repudiation of foreign debt can only be done by uniting the protest movement of the Indonesian Working Class and Poor, because only we, have an interest in repudiating foreign dept, only we have the power to force this trough, because we are the one who operate the machine of production, wheels of distribution. Have we not already demonstrated our power when we opposed Ministerial Decree No. 78/2001, which revised the Ministerial Decree No. 150/2000, also when we opposed plan revision to Labor Law No. 13/2003, and was it not us who were victorious and they who lost? 3. Nationalization of the Mining and other Vital Industries under Worker Management by uniting the protest action and Mobilization Working Class and Poor. As explained above, the interest of foreign capital (who make use of the cowardly political elites and Domestic Capitalist), is to seek as large amount of profits as possible, and recently, the most beneficial for Foreign Capital are Mining Industries (Oil, Gas, Gold, Copper, Coal, Nickel, and etc), Besides to operate industries in their own country (Such as America, obviously need a huge amount of Oil supplies to guaranty their Industries operational) also by dominating our Mining, they receive a large advantages, because they sell it for a high prices to the other States who needed it (includes to Indonesia). As well as other benefits Industry such as Telecommunication, which lately are under foreign Capital authorization or also Banking Industries (Finance) that also have taken by Foreign (how can we develop this country, if all of the Banking are belong to foreigners). Because of that, in order to develop the strong and autonomous National Industry, all the entire Mining and Vital Industries have to be under control of Indonesian working class and Poor, in the way of Nationalization by our own Power, not relies on the elites politic power and domestic capitalist who has no any encouragement in front of Foreign Capitals, even in the end thought, they come to agree on Nationalization program (lately, there are Amien Rais, Wiranto or Rizal Ramli and others, diligently come up with Nationalization), its only acted to seek praises, lip service to look more populist, in order that Indonesian Working Class and Poor would trust them again, and they can hold back the power, and then commit oppression again. 4 Trial and Seizure the Corruptors Wealth by the Uniting the Protest Action and Mobilization Working Class and Poor. We do Noticed, that almost all of the Government Official from National to Neighborhood Association (RT) levels are hold by corrupt Officials. And we do notice also, there Institutions of corruption eradication are become the corrupt institutions. And we do know, the money that had been corrupted is huge amounts of it, that can be use to establish the Strong and Autonomous National Industry. Because of the acts to conduct corruption eradication and seizing their wealth is still not moving, so we have to take this responsibility. We are people, who will come in organized actions to arrest and seize the corruptor wealth, that we can use it to develop National Industry, because none other political power are able to do this. In order to carry out those Four Programs above, there's no other way, but all of the Indonesian Working Class and Poor have to united themselves and move together to take the Power in forces from Elites Politic power that cowardly in front of Capital and have Fail to bring the Indonesian Working Class and Poor in to the welfare. The working Class and Poor would have possibility to win this struggle, only through a strong, progressive and militant organization. Those have faith on their own mass power. Lately, we have seen and were collided by the failure excess of Three Labor Union Confederations in Indonesia, they were failed to struggle the needs of Indonesian Working Class and Poor. Even more, the leaders of these three confederations are not different at all with those cowardly elites politic; always seek for compromise that disadvantaged Indonesian Working Class and Poor – have they not like to compromise when criticizing wage question in Wage Council, have they not like to compromise when addressing Labor Law in Tripartite Body, which resulted Labor Law no. 13/2003 and so forth – on that's bases, why we named them as bogus confederations. On that bases also, why we have to rebuild a new confederation, which different in its struggles spirits, which bright clearer on its struggles goals, and which is different struggles method. By rebuilding new Progressive and Militant confederation, actually we train ourselves to build our own political movement, political power of Indonesian working class and Poor, who are ready to take power. Finally, Workers Challenge Alliance hailing to all of Working Comrades, Employees Comrades and Indonesian Poor to continuously to disseminate as widely as possible, to deepen the ideas in any discussions and meeting forums as well as between working comrades in a rents house, inter-rent houses, in side the Factory, inter-Factory, in an Industrial territory, inter-industrial territory, in one city and inter the city, until in national Meetings forums. ABM also hailing to all Indonesian Working Class and Poor, always build solidarity, never let any of our Class people to be oppressed, without receiving help from the other, keep building up the unity anywhere, because the unity is the way out of our victory. Happy International Labor Day, Keep struggles until the victory come!!

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